BURSTOn March 28, Jana Švecová established a new V15 (8C) with her first ascent of Tokyo Drift at the Holstejn crag in Czechia. She first tried the boulder in April 2025, but after a series of finger injuries, she was unable to finish it up until now. She recenlty revisited her Tokyo Drift project to reacquaint herself with the problem. It didn’t take long for her to lock in the beta and top her second V15 FA. The footage of her send has just been released in a new video on her YouTube channel, which you can view below.
“Today was the best day of my climbing career,” said Švecová on Instagram. “The send was so unexpected, not because I wouldn’t be close in terms of high point, but because of the conditions and other circumstances. First of all, the [temperature] was 5 degrees Celsius, which is almost unimaginable for me to climb and extremely windy. Second of all, I had to readjust most of the holds and even had a foot slip, but the desire to send this boulder this go, this session was bigger than any slip and wrongly hit hold. It just worked… well, it was kinda drama at the end, I was emotional.”
On her YouTube channel, she said, “I couldn’t have imagined a better start to the season. Sending Tokyo Drift V15 so quickly was completely unexpected! In total, I spent around –. The first four sessions last year, in April, weren’t even fully dedicated to it. I was just trying it after Terranova, when I felt too tired to work on links there. This year, it felt like the perfect plan: to tick off something really hard, see where my shape is after winter training, and build some confidence before getting back on Terranova.”
Švecová has a stacked bouldering resume. According to her 8a.nu, she has climbed two V15 FAs, one V14/15, four V14s, and seven V13s. Only nine women, including Švecová, have climbed V15 or harder. Švecová now joins Katie Lamb and Janja Garnbret as one of the elite few who have climbed more than one V15.
In June 2023, Švecová made the first ascent of Nova, a variation of Adam Ondra’s Terranova V16. She originally graded the problem V14, but Will Bosi suggested an upgrade to V15 after his second ascent. Later that year, in December, she made the first ascent of Dune and proposed V13. Bosi also suggested an upgrade for this, calling it V14.
In November 2024, she made the first ascent of Supertussi Low and proposed V14 – the problem has not yet been repeated. One week after sending Supertussi Low, she also ticked Graceland. While most climbers call it V14, both she and Bosi dubbed it V13 (Bosi called it V13 hard). Ondra’s Terranova is one of Švecová’s mega-projects, and she’s been making slow, consistent progress on the unrepeated problem over the years.
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