BURSTSquamish has no shortage of 5.12a sport climbs, with dozens of them listed in the Marc Bourdon’s excellent Squamish Select guidebook. Classics like Blackwater at Pet Wall, Yellowbeard at Rogue’s Gallery, Incredible Journey at Forgotten Wall, Mrs. Negative at Toxic Lichen, Out of the Darkness and into the Light at The Monastery, and It’s Not About You at Fern Hill deserve all of the attention they get! But if you’re looking for some quality 5.12a sport lines a little off the beaten path, check these five routes out.
Poltergeist 5.12a – Poltergeist Wall
Poltergeist Wall is part of the Browning Bluffs, located across the highway from Murrin Park’s Browning Lake. There is a mix of sport and trad lines, all of which are exceptional. The 5.12a route Poltergiest is the most striking line at the crag. You begin with an engaging bolted 5.11a and then continue through the extension to the second set of chains at 35 metres. The climb features highly technical, tricky climbing that’s tough to onsight. High in the grade for sure! Topo here.
Surf Park 5.12a – Echo Beach
The climbing style at Echo Beach in Chek is somewhat novel for Squamish. The rock is juggy, sustained, and slightly overhanging, packing a good pump. Surf Park features flowy climbing to a fun crux up high just as you’re starting to run out of steam. There are some good 5.11 warm-up climbs here that will prepare you well for Surf Park. If you enjoy the route, you should also tie in for the neighbouring 5.12a, Tessellation. Topo here.
Frontline Hero 5.12a – Brohm Dome
Brohm Dome is found across the highway from the popular Brohm Lake. The west-facing crag is surrounded by tall trees which offer some filtered shade, and also block a lot of the highway noise. When you arrive at the crag, you will encounter a stunning arete that is begging to be climbed. This eye-catching feature is Frontline Hero. Although it doesn’t climb as good as it looks, it’s still pretty damn fun. Don’t miss the 5.11a warm ups Cobra Chicken and Maybe It’s Airborne. Topo here.
Too Cool for Home School 5.12a – Brohm Dome
Too Cool for Home School is another excellent 5.12a at Brohm Dome. It climbs in a completely different style than Frontline Hero. Technical, cruxy, and very pumpy, the route makes for a good challenge! If you’re in the mood for some trad, bring your gear because there are some fun crack lines at Brohm Dome. There is also a bolted jammy 5.11c steps away if you want to clip draws, but still get your crack fix. Topo here.
Peanut Butter Pill Pusher 5.12a – The Ledge
You’ll find The Ledge in the Ashlu Valley, a 35-minute drive from Squamish. The rock quality at the crag is perfect and the climbs are all unique and interesting. The routes are long, requiring good endurance. Most lines are sport, but some are trad, so it’s well worth bringing a rack. Peanut Butter Pill Pusher is the best 5.12a at the crag. It features some sporty climbing to a funky dihedral section, followed by a sit-down rest. A final boulder problem guards the chains. The river below has a cooling effect, making the Ledge a good choice on particularly hot days. Topo here.
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