BURSTJake Tiger recently completed the famous “Top 25 Highballs” boulder problems in Squamish, ticking the ultra-intimidating World of Hurt V10 and sketchy mantel problem Palm Meat V6 on the same day to finish off the list. The “Top 25” is a famous list of problems in Marc Bourdon’s Squamish Bouldering guidebook. Ranging from V2 to V11, this rarely completed list covers many of Squamish’s most classic tall boulder problems like Enchanted V4, Teenage Lobotomy V7, and The Drowning Grip V11.
Tiger had slowly picked away at the “Top 25” list over the past few years in between establishing his own first ascents, many of which are highballs. He left World of Hurt V10 and Palm Meat V6 as his final two problems on the list, completing them both on April 26th. You can watch Tiger’s “Top 25” highball sends on his YouTube channel here.
Originally from Ontario but now a Squamish local, Tiger has been at the forefront Squamish highball development in recent years, establishing tall, aesthetic problems at a wide range of grades all around region – from the Valley of Shaddai and Murrin Park in the South to Cheakamus Canyon and the Ashlu Valley in the north. Three of his highball highlights include first ascents of Daedalus V12, Edge of Insanity V9, and Against the Grain V8.
To learn more about his completion of “Top 25” highball list, I reached out to Tiger. You can read our short interview below. It should be mentioned that after our interview yesterday, Tiger made the first ascent of Til Death Do Us Part V10 in the Grand Wall Boulders. Perhaps his most stunning highball FA yet, the problem starts with a classic Squamish-style lip traverse (quite high off the deck) to a delicate slab exit very, very high off the ground.
What was your favourite “Top 25” problem V5 and under?
Oof hard question. I always struggle to figure out my favourite of things because I enjoy each of these climbs in a different way. It’s hard to pick just one but I’ve probably climbed Enchanted [V4] the most on the list. I also had a ton of fun on Welcome to the Jungle [V5] and No Excuse for Porn Hair [V4]. I just love Paradise Valley so much and the location and aesthetics of Enchanted really speak to me.
What was your favourite problem V6 and above and why?
I think on the harder spectrum of problems on the list the one that stands out to me is Straight Outta’ Squampton [V10]. It was a very memorable experience. I had wanted to do it for some time and thought it would be way scarier than it was but my process made it feel exceptionally enjoyable and that dyno at the end was over-the-top fun.
Does any problem stand out in your mind as being scarier/more intimidating than the others? If so, which one and why?
The only problem on the whole list that I was intimidated by was World of Hurt [V10]. It’s why I saved it for the end. The landing is bad and there are quite challenging, big and committing moves up high. I had tried it once on a rope a few years ago and I thought it felt crazy hard and that it would be insane to boulder it. A week before my send go I unlocked a sequence on a rope that made it feel possible, so it felt like it was on. The day I went for it, I had already climbed a bunch beforehand on other things so I was quite tired and had low expectations. I was pretty pumped during the send but I moved with confidence and got through it, unscathed. I’m proud of myself that I didn’t get injured attempting any of the lines on the list.
Which problem was your least favourite and why?
Least favourite? Another hard question. I think they are all excellent problems. I would have said Palm Meat before I climbed it. I put it off until the end because I was never attracted to it but once I climbed it I realized how great it truly is. I don’t think I have a least favourite.
Future iterations of the list will almost certainly include some of your highball FAs. Any suggestions for problems that could be added to the list?
I’m flattered you would think so. Almost all of my highball FAs don’t have second ascents so it’s hard to think if people would like them. I am biased and wouldn’t put in the effort to develop them unless I thought they were great. The one high problem I put up that does have some repeats is called Juicy J, in the Oblivion Zone of the Ashlu valley. Being at the V6 grade I think it is very accessible and people have told me they really liked it. I also think Walk on the Water V8 (valley of Shaddai), Isosceles V10 (Tantalus Lookout), Edge of Insanity V9 (Oblivion) and Glanced V4 (Grand Wall) are five-star lines and I would be honoured if any of them made it to the future list.
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