Contrasting Outcomes for Nepal’s Fall Climbing Season

A seven-member rope-fixing team successfully reached the summit of Ama Dablam at 11:40 a.m. on Oct. 13, opening the route for subsequent climbing expeditions. Led by Nuru Wangchu Sherpa, the team operated with base camp logistical support from Himalayan Guides Nepal. The other members were Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, Lal Kumar Tamang, Pasang Tenji Sherpa, Ngawang Paljor Sherpa, Lakpa Sange Sherpa and Namgel Dorjee Tamang. Hundreds of climbers are expected to attempt Ama Dablam this season.

In contrast, adverse weather has disrupted expeditions on several major Himalayan peaks, including Manaslu, Dhaulagiri and Makalu. Polish ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel abandoned his planned solo ascent and ski descent of Dhaulagiri (8,167 metres) after high winds prevented him from progressing beyond camp two. He returned to base camp and was expected to fly to Kathmandu by helicopter.

Chhang Dawa Sherpa of Seven Summits Treks has said that their attempt to summit Dhaulagiri this season has also been called off. Heavy snowfall linked to a deep tropical depression over the Indian Ocean had made for sketchy conditions throughout the range; they’d already called off their Manaslu attempt. The company reaffirmed its “Guide’s Decision” policy, which empowers guides to halt an expedition when conditions threaten safety.

Meanwhile, Darinji Sherpa and a German client reached the summit of Putha Hiunchuli (7,246 metres) this week. Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, managing director of I AM Trekking and Expeditions, said it’s the first successful ascent of a peak above 7,000 metres in Nepal’s autumn 2026 climbing season.

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