BURSTBritish climbers Tom Livingstone and his American alpinist Rob Smith have made the first ascent of Shark Attack, a 650-metre M7 6b on Dent du Requin near Mont Blanc above Chamonix.
They established the aesthetic north face line, which follows steep corners, from March 4 to 6. They climbed it clean on their first attempt. In 2023, they made the first ascent of Happy Birthday, a 1,000-metre M6 AI4 ED in the Alps – read about it here.
“The route is quite logical in winter, since it has a fair amount of névé,” Livingstone said on Planet Mountain. “An excellent adventure which kept us guessing and with sustained climbing throughout. Excellent névé conditions in the first pitches of the route led us to a first bivy beneath the big corners. The following day we followed the corners up and occasionally rightwards to easier ground and another bivy on the ridgeline. From there we climbed to the top and descended the north side.”
Livingstone said that it would sometimes have 15 metres of hard dry tooling and finger cracks, and sometimes 55 metres of névé and mixed roofs.
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