BURSTBanff National Park, home to some of the world’s most iconic ice climbs, is experiencing unseasonably warm weather this November, with daytime highs hovering around or even above freezing. Typically, November highs in Banff sit between –3°C and 0°C, so these milder temperatures are delaying the full onset of winter in the Canadian Rockies.
For ice climbing, the warm days are slowing the formation of reliable ice. Many routes that normally come into condition early in the season either haven’t formed yet or remain thin and delaminated. Night-time lows are still dropping well below freezing (often to –8°C or lower), allowing for some overnight refreezing, but the daytime warmth is causing repeated thaw cycles.
As a result, classics like Kidd Falls, Bourgeau Left, Professor Falls, Grotto Falls, and Guinness Gully are not yet in. However, several major lines are being climbed, just in very early-season condition. Among the routes that have seen ascents are Cosmic Messenger, Joker, Virtual Reality, Murchison Falls, Nemesis, and a handful of others.
The forecast for the coming week remains above seasonal, but a cold snap is expected by the end of the month. With luck, it will lock in more of the classic climbs. The best place to find current conditions in the Canadian Rockies is on the Facebook page Rockies Ice and Mixed Conditions here.
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