BURSTMatt Segal and Emily Harrington set out earlier this year to repeat one of Mexico’s hardest multi-pitch in a day. Called La Sombra del Chamán, the 385-metre 5.14a found on La Pared del Chamán in El Salto was first climbed at the end of 2025 by Álvaro Basich and Damián Zepeda. Segal ended up making the first one-day ascent and the second free ascent, linking the original 14 pitches into nine.
While Segal and Harrington initially set out for a team free ascent, Harrington eventually switched into support mode and belayed Segal on his effort. “Emily is being a hero in full support mode,” said Segal, as Harrington continued to offer beta from below. “That shitty foothold with the tick, see it?” Harrington called up. “Get your left foot on that, then bring your right foot up high.”
After completing La Sombra del Chamán, Segal said: “What a mission. Amazing. My fingers hurt so bad… Thanks, Em. I appreciate it. Thanks for the support. It’s all about the stoke and having a good partner. It’s probably one of the bigger days I’ve had clipping bolts, for sure. Honestly, I couldn’t believe I actually did that second 5.14 pitch.”
The route was established by several teams over more than a decade and then sat mostly untried until 2024 when Anna Hazelnutt and Connor Runge freed much of it, demonstrating that a complete free ascent was within reach. Mexico has several difficult multi-pitch climbs, including The Ibiza Club Weapon (5.14b, 7 p), Samadhi (5.13, 13 p), and Logical Progression (5.13, 28 p).
Segal and Harrington on La Sombra del Chamán
The post Matt Segal Climbs 385-Metre 5.14 in Mexico in a Day appeared first on Gripped Magazine.