BURSTAfter a long and busy season in Squamish, two new routes have been announced just in time for the often-sweet fall season. Thomas Piché announced the new lines on the Squamish Facebook page.
The more moderate of the two is Call of the Snafflehound (FA: Thomas Piché and Mel Daigle) is a one-pitch 5.10+ offwidth in a dihedral. It begins with less obvious gear placements before entering the wide crack, where climbers can layback or use body-jamming techniques. Above a slabby ledge, delicate smearing and smaller gear placements lead right to three bolts and a final move over the pillar. Bring a big rack, from BD 0.2 to 6, with doubles of sizes 5 and 6 recommended. A size 7 may fit but is not considered necessary. Climbers can extend the outing by linking St. Vitus’ Dance and Good Samaritan into the new route for a longer day of wide-crack climbing.
The other new route (FA: Thomas Piché and Ben Piché) is Stan’s Route, dedicated to Stan Drdla, a friend and mentor of the route developers. Its two main pitches combine bouldery climbing, overhanging hand jams, friction stemming, thin dihedral climbing and powerful roof moves. The first pitch’s is 5.11d and protected by two bolts; the second culminates in a demanding roof traverse on small gear, with the route’s overall grade going at 5.12a. An easier third pitch connects to Butt Lite.
Both routes share an approach from Squamish Buttress. Climbers ascend to the top of pitch four, where Butt Lite branches away, then follow flagged trail toward the Upper South Gully. Switchbacks and a fixed handline lead to Prairie Dog Pillar, the starting area for Call of the Snafflehound; Stan’s Route begins near a belay bolt along the approach ledge. The descent from the new wide route continues through forested ledges and scrambling toward the Upper South Gully and the area between the Chief’s First and Second Peaks. Watch footage of Stan’s Route below.
Stan’s Route
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