BURSTAlex Megos made the first ascent of two V14 (8B+) boulders in Norway – Norwegian Sky and Schattenspiel – within a few days. Norwegian Sky is crimpy and very dynamic with a huge throw on immaculate, wavy rock. Schattenspiel is more of a journey, with many moves on very steep terrain.
“I got pointed towards this project by a couple of people, so I went to check it out,” said Megos of Norwegian Sky. “The boulder, the location and the moves did not disappoint! After spending a couple of hours on the first move I stuck it, only to realize that the second move was a bit more committing than I thought. After another close attempt on the second move from the ground I stuck it the third time I passed the first move. I have no idea if V13 is justified, as it only really breaks down to the first move, but I thought it’s harder than all the V12’s I’ve done on this trip. Looking forward to hear what other people say.”
His FAs come along with countless other hard sends, as he has been ticking V10-V13 on his bouldering trip to Norway as if they’re V1-V3 warm-ups. The many boulders he has topped over the last couple of weeks include a near flash of Atlantis Low Start V13, Cerebellum V13, Tunguska V13, Thunder V13, Whore of Babylon V12, Simuleringshypotesen V11, Kaiju V11, Trodlanodlå V11 as a “rest day” send, and more.
“Another project I got pointed towards by a couple, and it didn’t disappoint,” said Megos on Instagram about Schattenspiel. “After taking a couple of hours to work out the moves and (for me) tricky heel hook, I managed to get the FA of this technical fitness boulder. Really good and sustained moves on a steep wall, yet technical with sketchy heel and toe hooks.”
Megos is a very well-rounded boulderer and sport climber. He has climbed several V15 boulders, including Shantaram in Norway, Lucid Dreaming at the Buttermilks, and a first ascent of Upgrade U in Frankenjura. In July this year, he made the first ascent of Frankenschelle V14/15, a new boulder line at Hülloch in Thüringen, Germany.
Earlier this year in January, Megos went on a sending spree in Fontainebleau, France. Highlights from his trip include La Force du Destin V14, Satan i Helvete (départ bas) V14 and Satan i Helvete V13. A couple of months later, he onsighted Nadesjda 5.14c at Le Joncas in France and capped the day off with second go sends of Le Blond, la Brüte et le Manouche 5.14c and Progression 5.14a/b.
Last year was also full of hard sends for the German climber. In January, he made the first ascent of Taureg Blanco 5.15b/c in Margalef, Spain. The next day, he flashed Mr. Big 5.14d. In March, he achieved the first-ever flash of the historic Agincourt, France’s first 5.14b. In April, he made another first ascent with Le Grand Saccage 5.15a/b and onsighted Dévers Sévère 5.14b/c in Buoux, France. In August, he clipped the chains on Adam Ondra’s Iron Curtain 5.15a and Kangaroo’s Limb 5.15a in Flatanger, Norway. Megos spent the month of August in Flatanger projecting B.I.G. 5.15d, one of three routes of the grade in the world. He battled skin issues on the climb, as well as frigid temps and rain.
Alex Megos’ First Ascent of Norwegian Sky V14
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