BURSTOn September 2, Adam Ondra made the second ascent of Tokyo Drift V15 (8C) at the Holstejn crag in Czechia. Jana Švecová opened the line earlier this year in March. It took her 10 sessions to complete the problem. She first tried the boulder in April 2025, but a series of finger injuries delayed her first ascent. Her first ascent of the line was the hardest boulder FA by a woman ever.
Tokyo Drift is a variation of Drift, an Ondra first ascent from 2017. The two limestones lines share the same second half, and the same drop-off ending. “Actually cooler climbing than Drift, nice addition Jana!” said Ondra on his 8a.nu account. Ondra called the problem V15, but did tag it as soft.
Last weekend, Ondra competed in the Lead European Championships in Laval, France. He finished in fourth, edged out by only a plus on the scoreboard behind Sam Avezou. Ginés López won his first European Championship gold, and Gio Placci took silver. Before his journey back from the comp, Ondra stopped in Toit d’Orsay area in Fontainebleau for some bouldering. He ended up making the FA of a V14/15 called Little Boy du Fond, and he also topped Vertical Art V13.
“The psyche was high to climb on sandstone!” said Ondra via Instagram. “I really wanted to try to flash the recent version of La Force [V14]. The original version doesn’t exist any more, as a huge flake was broken, so the start is higher. My flash try ended at the crux shoulder move in the middle of the roof.
“This particular move was very extreme for me (I still suck in shoulder moves, even more so combined with toehook), so once I did it from the start, I continued via the hardest possible exit with Trinity [V10] instead of Morpheus [V9]. And Little Boy du fond [V14/15] (or soft [V15]?) was born. I did Vertical Art [V13] to finish the day.” He continued, “Toit d’Orsay is not the best place in the world, and it feels more like climbing circuits than bouldering, but a very fun place to climb with some unique moves.”
Jana Švecová’s FA of Tokyo Drift V15
Adam Ondra’s FA of Drift V15
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