BURSTFrom Sept. 9 to 14, 2024, Slovenian climbers Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev, part of a four-member female expedition, made the first documented ascent of Lalung I via the east ridge (M6+ AI5+, 2000 m), naming the route Here Comes the Sun. They traversed the mountain, descending the west ridge and north face.
Located in the Lalung Valley, southwest of the Suru River near Nun and Kun, Lalung I had no recorded ascents before 2024 due to sparse documentation and confusing peak names in the Zanskar-Kishtwar region. From an advanced base camp at 4,800 metres, the duo climbed the challenging east ridge over five days, enduring one and a half days pinned in their tent by bad weather. On the final night, high winds destroyed their tent poles, forcing a bivouac.
Summit morning brought mist, but they reached the top at 9 a.m. on Sept. 14. Their descent involved a long traverse of the west ridge, five rappels down the north face to the Lalung Glacier, and an eight-hour trek back to base camp, arriving at 6:30 p.m. While they were away, bears repeatedly raided their base camp, damaging tents and stealing food.
The Piolets d’Or awarded this climb a Special Mention for Female Alpinism, praising the exploratory ascent of a 6,000m peak in a remote area, the full traverse, pure alpine style, technical difficulty, and commitment in adverse conditions. This achievement aligns with the Piolets d’Or values and inspires female alpinists.
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