Ethan Berman, Sebastian Pelletti and Maarten van Haeren have completed the first ascent of the Southeast Pillar of Ultar Sar (7,388 m) in Pakistan’s Karakoram. They named their 3,100-metre route Shooting the Moon and graded it WI4 M5 – see their Instagram post below.
After an unsuccessful attempt in 2024, the team, supported by a 2025 Cutting Edge Grant from the American Alpine Club and the John Lauchlan Memorial Award from the Alpine Club of Canada, climbed the big route in alpine style. It follows mixed terrain to a final pillar to the top. It’s a big, impressive line.
Ultar Sar, also known as Bojohagur Duan Asir II, in the Batura Muztagh, rises 5,300 metres above the Hunza River. Its Southeast Pillar, often called the Hidden Pillar or the Walker Spur of the Karakoram, was one of the range’s last major unclimbed challenges.
Ultar Sar saw its first ascents in July 1996 by Japanese teams via the Southwest and South Ridges. The Southeast Pillar had been attempted by several top alpinists over the years, with one attempt in 2018 ending with the death of Christian Huber.
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