BURSTU.K. climber Billy Ridal has repeated Rhapsody, the first climbing route to receive an E11 grade. Originally ascended in 2006 by Dave MacLeod, the route has since been climbed by several notable climbers, including Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, Jacopo Larcher, James Pearson, and others.
In 2006, MacLeod described the route, stating, “I have named the route Rhapsody and graded it E11 7a. The climbing is approximately F8c [5.14c] in difficulty, with a very long fall and a big swing into the rock if you fail. I injured myself badly on some of my failed attempts.” He added, “As far as I know, there aren’t other traditional routes with this combination of extreme danger and high technical difficulty.”
Rhapsody begins on the Requiem Crack, rated E8 6b (5.13c/d), before transitioning into a V10/11 boulder problem near the top, where the potential for a whipper, is high. MacLeod completed the route after dedicating 70 days to projecting it over two years.
About his send, Ridal, who’s freed The Nose (5.14, 29 pitches) in Yosemite and The Big Island V15, said on 8a.nu, “Having two fresh nuts, and adjusting my quick draws so that the larger, stronger nut weighted first, was enough to calm my mind to get back on lead. The next morning, everything came together and despite feeling the nerves in the last couple moves, I found myself on top of the crag.”
Rhapsody Sends
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