BURSTIf you have been bouldering in a gym and are considering a transition to real rock, acquiring a crash pad is likely your near future. With so many varieties of shapes, sizes, and constructions (and prices), it can be hard to know which direction to take. Beyond choosing your favourite colour, there are several other factors to consider when choosing the right setup – the nature of the landings, the height of the boulders, and even the approach will all impact your decision on the size, type of foam, and amount of pads needed. Because your crash pad setup is the only protective gear you have when bouldering, it is important to get this right. Let’s dive in:
Landing terrain
Consider the area in which you will be bouldering most. Think about the nature of the landings there. The landings will determine the minimum number of pads you will require and the best composition for your needs. Some landings are easy to protect – the surface is relatively even, void of dead space and excessive debris, like fallen trees that are difficult or impossible to manage. If the landings are composed of sand or dirt, you might be able to get away with a thinner pad, or one that uses foam of a lighter density, which are often cheaper. If the landing is flat but composed of granite, you should consider investing in higher-density foam. If the landings are very uneven, either due to tree roots, small boulders, or talus, for example, you may need more pads than you think.
Boulder height
Some areas feature many lowballs, while others contain blocs that are a bit more airy and scary. A lowball does not have a defined height, but many climbers would agree that anything under three metres is probably in the lowball category. Many guidebooks will indicate if a problem is a lowball, and as a beginning outdoor climber, it may be beneficial to seek such problems, as they are generally easier to protect. Lowballs can often be protected safely with a single large pad or a couple standard pads, depending on the terrain of the landing.
Approach
Bouldering is commonly misconceived as a minimalist climbing discipline. If you have ever hiked for one hour with a couple of crashpads strapped to your back on trails less travelled, you know that if anything, bouldering is anything but. Crashpads are wide, making narrow trails that may otherwise be relatively flat and easy, a real pain. And if you are not long-legged, the heavy, awkward, and cumbersome pads might make you yearn for a pack of your sport climbing kit instead. All of this is to say that if the approaches are full-on, be sure the weight and size of your pads are manageable.
Type of foam
Most pads are made of two kinds of foam: open-cell and closed-cell. Open-cell foam is softer and therefore, more prone to permanent compression over time. It is usually used in the middle layers of pads. Closed-cell foam is firmer and denser, and less prone to permanent compression. Companies use a combo of open- and closed-cell foam to ensure a balance of durability, protection, and comfort. Each crash pad has its own unique combination of foam. Be sure the pad or pads you are investing in are the right fit for your needs.
Pad size
There are many sizes available, including small, standard, and big. Most people opt for a big pad as their first. Big pads offer the most coverage, and one is often adequate for protecting many problems, especially lowballs. A combo of one big and one standard is the usual choice if it’s within your budget. That way, you have some variety in size and are more likely to be better equipped to correctly pad your landing. Also, a single person carrying two big pads is fairly miserable – opting for one big and one small is more comfortable.
Small/mini pads are quite thin and don’t cover much surface area. They come in handy if you need to protect a spotty landing or if you want less height under your bottom for a sit-start. And finally, there are also blubber pads. They cover a lot of area but are very thin. They are incredibly useful for smoothing out uneven landings and help close gaps. Like the small/mini size, blubber pads also work well if you want a thinner pad for your sit-start.
The post The Art of the Landing: Choosing the Right Crash Pad for Bouldering Outdoors appeared first on Gripped Magazine.