Robbie Phillips, one of the best all-round climbers of his generation, made the first ascent of Away With the Faeries (E9 6c, 5.13b) at Carn Liath on the Isle of Skye in 2025. A new film featuring his send was just released, watch it below.
“Getting through the first crux was critical,” said Phillips about Away With Faeries. “A fall there would likely mean hitting the ledge. But the next eight metres was just pure runout, hard climbing where a fall would probably just mean air time. I told myself it would be like bungee jumping, something I’ve never done, but maybe should have, to prepare for a potential 20-metre fall!”
Phillips has amassed an impressive list of sends over the years. In the Alps, he repeated Bellavista (5.14a, 280 m) on the north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, and Paciencia (5.13b, 900 m) on the north face of the Eiger. He was also the first Briton to complete the Alpine Trilogy, which includes End of Silence (5.14a, 11 pitches), Silbergeier (5.14a, 6 pitches), and Des Kaisers neue Kleider (5.14a, 9 pitches).
He’s also established cutting-edge first ascents including Haggisaurus Rex (5.14b), the hardest climb in Queensland, and What We Do in the Shadows (E10 7a) in Scotland. On El Cap, he’s sent Golden Gate (5.13a, 36 pitches), El Niño (5.13c, 25 pitches), and Freerider (5.13d, 30 pitches), and has put up major new routes such as Blood Moon (5.13c, 700 m) in Madagascar. Be sure to follow him on Instagram for more climbing action.
Away With the Faeries First Ascent
The post This New 5.13 Trad Route Has a Potential 20-Metre Fall appeared first on Gripped Magazine.