BURSTEarlier this week, Nicolai Užnik climbed La Force Tranquille V15 (8C) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. On his first attempt on the problem he nearly sent it, getting through the crux but numbed out and fell before the top-out. You can watch his ascent and his flash attempt in a video below.
La Force Tranquille was first ascended by Daniel Woods back in 2011. Nalle Hukkataival made the second ascent in 2013. It is now a well-loved climb in Magic Wood. It has seen ascents from many other top climbers, including Simon Lorenzi, Giuliano Cameroni, Nico Pelorson, Mejdi Schalck, and Clémont Lechaptois. After his failed flash attempt, Užnik tried once more, but dabbed. The following day, he sent on his first attempt.
“Yesterday I flashed [La Force Tranquille V15]… until my fingers went completely numb and I slipped on the top out,” said Užnik on Instagram. “It was an almost perfect attempt, until the right-hand dyno. I caught the crimp just a little too far left, which made matching impossible in that moment. I tried to move to the next hold even though my left hand was barely hanging on, then hesitated, went back, paused for a second, felt my fingers growing more numb and tired, but decided to drop back down to the previous hold to make space for the left hand. Somehow, I managed to adjust just enough.
“At that point, I knew I shouldn’t fall anymore – it was worth taking a moment. Even though it was still really close, I managed to reach the two good slots right before the top out. Completely numb fingers made me hesitate again – should I move straight away or rest a bit longer? I desperately tried to get some feeling back but couldn’t, so I just went for it. I’m pretty sure that if it hadn’t been for the slip, I wouldn’t have dropped it, but what can you do.
“I had both options in mind for the top out – the crossover or going straight right. In some videos, the crossover looked a bit weird, and since my brother made the other way look super chill, I went for that. After trying it quickly again right after falling, I think the crossover would’ve been even safer for me – though probably 99 out of 100 times the other method works too. Crazy how these tiny details can change the outcome – especially where you least expect it.
“Anyway, I was quite frustrated and completely wrecked afterward. That attempt took a lot of power and energy, both physically and mentally. I gave it one more try, but dabbed right before the dyno. Today I came back with fresh motivation, warmed up, and sent it first try.”
Užnik has been on tear this year. Earlier this month, he sent Will Bosi’s Brain Rot V16, suggesting the problem felt more like V15 to him. He also topped Mystic Stylez V14 in only a few attempts. On a bouldering trip to Rocklands in July, he sent many of the area classics including Monkey Wedding V15.
In March, Užnik made the first ascent of Mount Doom, a low start to the popular Hide and Sick V14 in Maltatal, grading the problem V17. Before Mount Doom, Užnik’s hardest boulder to date was making the first post-break ascent of Emotional Landscapes in Maltatal. A V15 before the breakage, Užnik graded the problem V16. The 24-year-old has extensive IFSC Word Cup experience, making the finals at multiple events over the past few years.
Nicolai Užnik climbing La Force Tranquille V15
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