BURSTPolar Circus is one of the most celebrated ice climbs in the world, thanks to its location on Cirrus Mountain, as well as its accessibility, length, grade, and epic history. Joe Josephson, author of Waterfall Ice: Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, called Polar Circus “the showpiece of the Canadian Rockies and a must for all climbers.”
The route climbs 700 metres of terrain, including 500 metres of ice up to WI5, though most pitches are rated WI3 and WI4. In some years, a variation known as The Pencil forms midway up the route. This season, favourable conditions allowed The Pencil to form fat, and it’s been climbed several times.
The first ascent of Polar Circus was in 1975, completed over eight days by Bugs McKeith, Charlie Porter, Adrian Burgess, and Alan Burgess, using fixed ropes and aid. Two days later, Laurie Skreslet, Eckhard Grassman, and Mike Lailey completed the route in five days, free climbing all but five metres.
Charlie Porter is credited with naming the route during the first ascent. While setting up a station on one of the steep pitches, he referred to the effort as a “Polish circus.” At some point, “Polish” evolved into “Polar,” giving the climb its iconic name.
While The Pencil was formed in 1975 (read about the first ascent here), it wasn’t climbed until the following winter when two leading American climbers arrived. Yosemite big wall specialist Dale Bard and Alaskan alpine expert Jack Roberts not only completed one of the first repeats of Polar Circus, but also made the first ascent of The Pencil at WI6.
Then in 1988, Barry Blanchard soloed Polar Circus, reflecting afterward: “I had soloed a number of waterfalls in the last month, and I was enjoying it. I loved the freedom—the constant motion, always climbing, never belaying, and never being cold. I always need the fear, but in just the right amount. I have no interest in overdosing.” Blanchard skipped The Pencil on his ascent, though it has since been soloed several times since.
The Pencil is one of North America’s most classic WI6 pitches. If you find yourself in the area with good avalanche conditions (Polar Circus avalanche information here) and feeling strong, don’t miss the chance to give it a go.
The Pencil at Night
Recently, local climber Cory Rogans ran a lap of The Pencil under the cover of night using floodlights, check out the video by Geoff Roy below. If you want to see what’s being climbed in the Canadian Rockies these days, be sure to follow the Rockies Ice and Mixed Conditions page here.
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