Rare Ascent of a Japanese V16

Gripped Climbing Magazine
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In Winter 2025, Daisuke Ichimiya made the third ascent of United V16 (8C+) in Mizugaki, Japan. The problem is sit-start to Toru Nakajima’s burly test piece, Decided V14. The sit start adds five hard moves into the beginning of Decided, which by themselves amount to V14. United was first climbed Ryuichi Murai in 2019. Shawn Raboutou made the second ascent while on a visit to Japan last year.

“When this challenge became my goal, I lacked many things,” said Ichimiya on Instagram after his ascent. “So, I decided to first complete two smaller goals that were within reach before taking it on. After about four years, I was finally able to achieve the process I had envisioned. I still remember watching Shawn climb last early summer, completely captivated by his movement, and feeling a strong desire to climb seriously.”

United is not Ichimiya’s first V16. In 2017, he repeated Daniel Woods’ Creature from the Black Lagoon V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. He has many V15s to his name, including Japanese classics like Shambala, Vanitas, and Horizon. Earlier this year he made the first ascent of Mappō V15 in Kyoto.

Mellow just released send footage of Ichimiya’s United ascent, which you can view below.

Daisuke Ichimiya’s ascent of United V16

Ryuichi Murai’s FA of United V16

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