BURSTItalian climbers Mirco Grasso and Samuele Mazzolini have made the first ascent of O Caminho dos Cogumelos on the east face of Mount Panda, also known as Phandambiri, in the African country of Mozambique.
The 890-metre 5.11c is the first technical route established on the large granite peak. It was climbed ground up over six days and has 70 protection bolts plus anchors. There are few natural features where the climbers could use trad gear. The climbers are in the area with a larger group of people who are taking part in the Verso il Phandambiri expedition, which is supported by the Italian Alpine Club.
Mazzolini said, “The excitement of climbing an untouched face is always immense. When you’re on the other side of the world, in a vast expanse like the African savanna, immersed in a different culture, it’s hard to put into words what you feel.
The days are currently short at Phandambiri, as it’s mid-winter, so climber must work fast to take advantage of daylight. “Our climb is the result of carefully judging the right approach one must take when faced with a wall that has never been climbed before and about which nothing is known,” said Mazzolini. “What we established is a beautiful climb on magnificent rock, one that will surely be a pleasure to repeat.”
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