BURSTOn January 7, Gio Placci sent Terapia d’urto 5.15a (9a+) at the Padaro crag in Arco, Italy. The route is short, intense, and severely overhanging. It links L’arciere 5.14b into Goosfraba 5.14c, and was first climbed by Stefano Ghisolfi in March 2021. Laura Rogora made the first female ascent with her repeat in November 2021. You can watch Ghisolfi’s FA in a video embedded below.
“Almost 50 days ago, I had a bad ankle injury that forced me to stop rock climbing,” said Placci on Instagram after his ascent. “The rock season is always very short for me since I still want to focus on competitions, and this small inconvenience basically made me skip the outdoor season this winter. Anyway, before the injury I was very close to sending this short and powerful line, first freed by [Stefano Ghisolfi] a few years ago, and I couldn’t resist coming back to finish it as soon as my foot was okay.
Terapia d’urto 5.15a is Placci’s fourth of the grade. The 24-year-old Italian sent his first 5.15a in November 2022 with Adam Ondra’s Beginning in Arco. Later that month, he sent Trofeo dell’adriatico, a Gabrielle Moroni FA also located in Arco. Less than a month later, he sent Ondra’s Bombardino 5.15a, again in Arco. In November 2024, he sent his first and only 5.15b, the famous Erebor in Arco. Opened by Ghisolfi in 2021, the grade of the line has shifted from 5.15b/c to 5.15b.
Stefano Ghisolfi on Terapia d’urto 5.15a
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