Climber Who Skipped 5.14d for 5.15a, Climbs Her First 5.14d

French climber Nolwen Berthier, 33, has climbed her first 5.14d on record with Hématome Crochu. In 2022, she skipped 5.14d and went straight to 5.15a with a send of Supercrackinette at Saint Léger, first climbed by Alex Megos and famously onsighted by Adam Ondra.

Also in 2022, Berthier onsighed the famous Omaha Beach at Red River Gorge (RRG) in Kentucky. The monster 39-metre pitch climbs to the top of the Madness Cave. The classic 5.14a was first sent in 1999 by Bill Ramsey and graded at 5.13d, but upgraded after holds broke. It’s long, steep and has a few in-your-face cruxes with some good rests. Berthier was third woman to onsight Omaha Beach, after Katie Brown and Sasha DiGiulian. “With feet everywhere and thousands of crimps, I have to admit that the climbing in RRG suits me well,” said Berthier.

Berthier has also climbed 5.14c with La Flûte en chantier at La Ramirole; and has ticked several V12s. In the comp world, she finished in the top 15 in the Lead World Cup in 2018; was on the Lead and Boulder national teams; and podiumed at the Lead European Youth Cup in 2012.

“I love crags with demanding climbing styles, such as Le Rocher Crespin, La Ramirole, La Carrière du Maupas, and Van d’en Haut,” Berthier once said, noting to not ask her for beta “unless you’re very short and you like very small crimps.”

Supercrackinette 5.15a

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