‘Fashion is about fantasy’: Max Mara’s short shorts are inspired by postwar Naples

Brand known for no-nonsense style and camel coats channels the glamour and poverty of the city in Italian cinema

Max Mara is known for its deep-pile camel coats and conservative northern Italian style. But in tune with the times, this season’s show at the baroque Palace of Caserta outside Naples opened with a pair of very short shorts.

Tight and high-waisted, the vibe was Vogue but the inspiration was the 1949 Italian realist film Riso Amaro (Bitter Rice) and a 19-year-old Italian actor, Silvana Mangano, in a paddy field wearing damp shorts and stockings, which ended up on global billboards.