BURSTYesterday, Laura Rogora sent Il Terzo Occhio 5.14d (9a) in Castello di Drena, Arco. Stefano Ghisolfi FA’d the route in December of 2023. Rogora’s send was the first female ascent, and likely the second ascent. Il Terzo Occhio follows a steep face featuring a long tufa and two-finger pockets, with two good rests along the way.
A common issue faced by many in October accompanied Rogora’s send—a case of the flu. She impressively managed to push through and joked about her FFA having a double meaning this time around.
“In 2022 [Stefano Ghisolfi], [Adam Ondra] and I bolted and tried this line in Castel Drena,” said Rogora on Instagram. “Last week I got back on it and came quite close a few times but always managed to mess it up at the end (breaking some footholds or doing some stupid stuff). Yesterday everything was perfect, well… almost everything: I was on my 5th day climbing, I had the flu and I climbed with 20°C in the sun but I could unexpectedly make the FFA (First Fever Ascent) of the route.”
Rogora has one of the most impressive sport climbing resumes in the world. In late 2024/early 2025, she visited Mišja Peč in Slovenia, where over the course of a week – with no rest days – she redpointed Sanjski Par Extension 5.14d, Xaxid Hostel 5.14d (on her sixth go), Martin Krpan 5.14d (on her fourth go), Človek Ne Jezi Se L2 5.14c (on her second go), Hysteria 5.14c (on her third go), and Sanjski Par 5.14c. She also clipped the chains on two 5.14b routes, Strelovod and Talk is Cheap.
In the three months leading up to her Mišja Peč trip, she went on an on-and-off again sport climbing tear across Europe, racking up a mind-blowing tick list of female first ascents and repeats. She made the FFA of Goldrake 5.14d/15a in Cornalba, Italy at the end of September 2024, and then went on to redpoint at least two 5.15a’s, six 5.14d’s, and four 5.14c’s. She also onsighted 5.14b and flashed a couple 5.14a’s and 5.14b’s.
Stefano Ghisolfi on Il Terzo Occhio 5.14d
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