BURSTThe Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition has scored a huge win for climbers’ access, striking a deal that has reopened 80 routes that range from 5.8 to 5.14c.
Oil Crack and Arena will soon be climbable once again, following loss of access for 22 years. The crags are just around the corner from Drive-By and Bob Marley.
“What makes this moment so meaningful is not just that access has returned, but that it reflects decades of persistence, learning, and relationship-building, said Shannon Stuart-Smith, founder of the RRGCC, in a news release.
“This outcome shows what is possible when a community stays committed over the long arc—adapting, staying at the table, and never fully letting go of what matters. That this agreement came together in the coalition’s 30th anniversary year feels especially fitting.”
First developed in the late 1990s and early 2000s, the crags are home to many classic routes.
But by April 2004, access was lost. “No Climbing” and “No Trespassing” signs were strewn about the cliffline, beginning what would become a decades-long effort to regain access.
Paul Vidal, then the RRGCC president, opened up a relationship-building campaign. Over the years, this was continued with Jereme Ransick, a former board member, picking up the mantle in 2019.
“Maintaining momentum on access to closed crags can be difficult, especially with repeated starts and stops,” said Ransick, the co-chair of the access and acquisitions committee.
“Progress may feel stalled as time and resources are invested, but situations can shift unexpectedly; like when a new landowner recently reached out to learn about the RRGCC with an open mind.”
That new land owner was Lori Morel. This sparked up a new dialogue with climbers in the last few years, and both parties landed on a three-year renewable lease agreement.
While access has now been secured, the crags still need significant development work.
As a result, the RRGCC is aiming for a Fall 2026 opening date, but this requires resources.
A fundraiser has been started with a goal of hitting $60,000. Those who donate specified levels will be entered in a raffle for a chance to win gear.
Details on the fundraiser can be found here.
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