BURSTIce and mixed climbing have long been popular ways for climbers in cold climates to get their outdoor climbing fix during the winter months. Good technique and careful planning will greatly increase your chances of success, and, more importantly, your enjoyment. Here are a few tips to help keep you climbing stronger and warmer this winter.
Ice Tool Placements
Modern ice tools are designed to minimise the amount of force needed to achieve a solid placement, so focus on technique rather than power. The best ice climbers have mastered the balance between a controlled swing and a precise wrist flick, think throwing darts, not a ball. On thin ice, swinging too hard can shatter the surface you’re trying to hook into, leaving you with nothing. Be mindful not to overgrip while swinging, as this reduces accuracy and increases fatigue.
Always know where you want your tool to land by visually scoping out a target before swinging, and avoid placing tools too close together on the same horizontal plane. With experience, you’ll learn what a good placement looks and sounds like. Once placed, test it by pulling down and gradually adding weight. Don’t commit until you’re confident it’s secure, then make your next move. On fat ice, your goal should be 100 per cent bomber placements.
Footwork
Footwork is just as important as ice tool placement in ice climbing. Depending on the route, there are different ways to use your crampons. On some climbs, you will kick your front points straight into the ice, while on others you will place them carefully on edges. Keep your feet about shoulder-width apart and always look at where you are placing them. Keep your pelvis close to the ice so your body weight stays over your feet, which reduces strain on your arms. Practising on top rope is a great way to develop the technique that works best for you. On low-angle ice, focus on flat-foot placements to reduce leg pump, keep your knees bent, and maintain your body weight forward.
On steep ice, keep your arms straight, your picks staggered, and your feet at an even level. Step as high as possible to get the most out of each swing. With so many crampons on the market, it is important to choose a model suited to the type of climbing you plan to do. Lightweight crampons work well for glacier travel but perform poorly on steep ice. Heavy-duty waterfall crampons are stable and durable for long, sustained pitches of steep ice. If you are primarily planning to climb mixed routes, consider fruit boots with bolt-on crampons.
Another consideration is whether to use single or double front points. With experience, climbing on a single point becomes straightforward, but for beginners the learning curve is often gentler with two front points, which provide added balance and stability. The more metal you have in the ice, the less effort you need to expend. For mixed climbing, however, a single front point is generally the better choice.
Use Umbilical Leashes
Umbilical leashes are designed to prevent you from dropping an ice tool. They attach from the tool to your belay loop. While they predate wrist leashes, they fell out of favour for many years. Most modern bent-shaft tools no longer accommodate wrist leashes, but instead include an attachment point at the base of the handle for umbilical leashes. Although they take some time to learn to use effectively, they are a better option than carrying a third tool on longer ice routes, where it is easy to accidentally drop or knock a tool loose.
Do not use an umbilical leash to rest your body weight. Instead, place an ice screw and rest on the rope. Even if an umbilical leash is rated to hold body weight, a single ice tool placement is often an insecure anchor point. Do not think of umbilicala as protection. Climbers have been injured by relying on them this way. In the footage below, the lead climber’s umbilical leash breaks, resulting in a fall.
Avoid the Screaming Barfies
Glove choice is critical, and you should always bring an extra pair, if not two, including a warm down pair. According to many climbers, the worst part of ice climbing is the screaming barfies. They occur when your hands are held above your shoulders for extended periods while gripping cold ice and then suddenly lowered, allowing warm blood to rush back in. The result is intense, often nauseating pain that can last up to five minutes. This most commonly affects the second climber.
To reduce the chances of barfies, warm up before climbing by bouldering on the ice or by swinging and flapping your arms to get blood flowing. Ultimately, however, glove choice makes the biggest difference. Wear gloves that are warm, resist getting wet, and still allow for an optimal range of motion.
Learn the V-Thread
Not all ice routes have trees or bolted anchors, so learning to build a V-thread is an essential skill. This simple system uses two 22 cm ice screws drilled at intersecting angles to create a V-shaped tunnel in the ice. Once the holes meet, a piece of cord or webbing can be threaded through to form an anchor. A variation known as a no-thread involves passing the rope directly through the hole and leaving it in place, but always confirm that the rope will pull cleanly before committing to the rappel. Practice building V-threads on the ground before relying on them in a real situation.
Climb Smart
Belay well away from any potential ice fall, while still maintaining a position that allows you to safely catch the leader. Take time to scope the line up the waterfall. In some cases, the wettest-looking ice offers poor screw placements and can be too soft for solid tool sticks. When swinging, aim for small divots or depressions in the ice rather than bulges, which are more likely to shatter. On brittle ice that requires extra swings, make each one count and ensure solid purchase with every placement. You do not need to bury your tools, but they should always feel bomber.
When placing ice screws, get into a stable stance with even feet and straight arms, and place the screw at waist height. Learn to manage the pump by shaking out whenever possible, slapping your hand against your leg often helps. If you are leading, practice resting after placing a screw. Modern leash-less tools make it easier to shake out and recover. Avoid becoming a climber who can only place screws with one hand, and practice placing them with both. When topping out or climbing over bulges, avoid striking the lip directly, as it can fracture into sharp, dinner-plate ice. Instead, swing well above the bulge, get your feet high, aim for depressions to achieve solid placements, and then mantel over.
And finally, never forget a thermos of a hot drink, like tea or coffee.
Cold Snap
Every winter over the past few years, cold snaps have sent temperatures across North America plummeting. Minus 40 C weather is cold enough to force even the hardiest cold-weather aficionados to hunker down indoors. However, just because the antifreeze in your truck freezes does not mean you have to give up on ice climbing. Simply double up your base and insulating layers and bring multiple down jackets to wear while belaying or doing laps.
Choosing an ice climb with a long approach can help warm your core, and it pays to select a route or crag that is sheltered from the wind but exposed to the sun. Do not let a cold snap keep you from swinging your tools. One bonus of frigid temperatures is that you will likely have the climb all to yourself.
The post 7 Must-Know Tips for Ice and Mixed Climbing This Winter appeared first on Gripped Magazine.