BURSTJakob Schubert just made the second ascent of Mount Doom V17 (9A). In December 2023, Schubert became the the first 5.15d climber to send a V17 boulder with his repeat of Alphane. With his ascent of Mount Doom, he is now the first 5.15d climber to send two V17s.
Mount Doom is located in Maltatal, Austria and was established by Nicolai Užnik in March of this year. Aiden Roberts and Janja Garnbret have both attempted the problem, but neither has topped it yet. Mount Doom is a sit start to Hide and Sick V14, a crimpy and shouldery boulder established by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder in 2016. Paul Robinson made the second ascent the following year, and since then, it has been sent by a few other top climbers, including Martin Stráník, Kim Marschner, and Janja Garnbret.
“Second ascent after my buddy [Nicolai Užnik],” said Schubert on Instagram. “An absolutely amazing line! Long, steep, crimpy and sustained until the top – so very much my style. [Janja Garnbret] decided the boulder was not hard enough for her yet and created a new mini crux by breaking a key hold and leaving a [knife] instead. It took me about two days to figure out a new beta for that lower sequence, which kept on costing me nerves until the very end. After [eight] days, I somehow got it done, though with one of the most epic fights I ever had on a boulder.”
Schubert is one of the best climbers in the world. He had a year for the books in 2023: in August, he won the Boulder & Lead Combined World Championships in Bern, earning his Paris Olympic ticket. The following month, he made history by becoming the third climber to send a 5.15d in making his first ascent of B.I.G. in Flatanger, Norway. A few months later, in December, he topped Alphane V17, becoming the first climber ever to send both 5.15d and V17. He’s also climbed Perfecto Mundo 5.15c, The Story of 3 Worlds V16, Vecchio Leone V16, and Return of the Dream V16 (which he called V15). His comp climbing achievements are too long to list. Highlights include over 20 gold medals in Lead World Cups and two Olympic bronzes.
Nicolai Užnik making the FA of Mount Doom V17
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