BURSTOn May 5, Czech climber Jana Švecová made the first female ascent of Mild Abuse of Terminology V14 (8B+) in the Tokerud area of Oslo, Norway. The problem took her five sessions to complete, twice falling at the final jug. Her ascent was the problem’s third.
“I think I’ve found my dream boulder,” said Švecová about the problem on Instagram”I’ve never had such a feeling while climbing a boulder as I did this time. Crimpy holds, cool moves, hard heel hooks-just perfection.”
In June 2023, Švecová made the first ascent of Nova, a variation of Adam Ondra’s Terranova V16. She originally graded the problem V14 but Bosi suggested an upgrade to V15 upon his second ascent. Besides Mild Abuse of Terminology, she’s climbed three other V14s: redpoints of Roof der Wildnis in Austria and Prehistorik in Czechia, and an FA of Supertussi Low V14 in Switzerland.
Supertussi is a relatively obscure V13 that starts up an steep tips crack before pulling a desperate roof. Švecová’s low start adds one very difficult move and a few foot moves to Supertussi. She spent four days on the problem in 2023 and another six last year, sending the problem on her second go of her 10th session.
In November last year, she sent Graceland V13/14 in Allgäu, Germany. Graceland was originally graded V14 and several other climbers who have repeated the climb have confirmed the grade. However, after flashing the problem in February last year, Bosi questioned the grade on his 8a.nu profile, writing, “Grades are impossible to know when you flash but I reckon it’s more on the 8B [V13] side than the + [V14]? Hopefully more people will go and try it soon.” He marked the problem as a V13 on his tick list. Švecová similarly took V13 for the problem.
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