BURSTAmericans Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler and Josh Wharton have repeated the Fowler-Watts on Taulliraju (5,830 m), a route first climbed by Mick Fowler and Chris Watts in 1982. The second ascent of the 800-metre line in 2002 by Stéphane Benoist, Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, and Patrick Pessi graded the route at ED3 V A3+ AI6 – read about it here.
Steadman described it as an irresistible line, saying it “scream[ed] to be climbed.” Although the granite appeared to be in excellent condition and free from objective hazards, the team quickly realized that the mountain was carrying far more snow than it had during the previous ascent five years earlier. Instead of expecting rock climbing in shoes, they anticipated a predominantly mixed climb, joking that “it seemed unlikely we’d break out the rock shoes.”
After leaving at 4 a.m. on July 24, the trio climbed roughly half the route on the first day, following terrain that had already been freed. While the climbing itself was relatively straightforward, hauling their equipment proved far more demanding, and they spent the night beneath the imposing headwall.
The second day featured one of the route’s standout leads, with Cody Winckler climbing an “spectacular 80m pitch of M7,” previously considered the hardest section ever climbed free. Progress slowed after that, however, as Josh Wharton fixed ropes above their snowy bivouac to begin tackling ground that had never been freed. As Steadman noted, “many more loomed above.”
The weather then became the expedition’s greatest challenge. Forecasts had predicted only a few hours of light snow, and even a “0% chance” of significant precipitation, but instead the climbers were hit by two days of persistent cloud and snowfall. Sleeping beneath only a tarp, they awoke around midnight to snow pouring through every opening. Steadman called it the worst mismatch between forecast and reality he had ever experienced: “Never have I encountered such bad weather with such a perfect forecast.”
Despite the deteriorating conditions, the team reached the route’s crux aid pitches on the third day. The first passed quickly, but the following sections demanded delicate mixed climbing up a thin seam cutting across otherwise featureless granite. Steadman described negotiating “a hairline diagonal seam, the only feature on a smooth sweep of vertical granite,” before confronting unstable flakes and strenuous moves through the steepest terrain. With no suitable ledges above, they were forced to establish an exposed bivouac atop a snow mushroom, where they would remain for three nights.
Still hampered by poor weather, they fixed ropes through the final cliff band rather than pushing for the summit immediately. Winckler succeeded on the intimidating roof wearing “one crampon and one bare boot,” completing the last remaining pitch to be climbed free. When the skies unexpectedly cleared the following morning, the team ascended iced ropes before continuing toward the summit over surreal snow and ice formations. Steadman recalled being pleasantly surprised by the generally solid snow and reliable anchors before reaching the narrow summit, where each climber “took turns sitting atop a tiny saddle of snow in the sky,” surrounded by the glistening peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.
The descent included a memorable moment of alpine humor when Steadman and Winckler tossed their heavy haul bag (“the pig”) down the mountain, only to retrieve it later from a crevasse. The expedition ended on a high note when they were greeted at the glacier by their support, complete with “hot stir fry and fresh avocados.”
Looking back, Steadman said the team had likely completed the fourth ascent and the first free-tool ascent of the Fowler-Watts, overcoming difficulties of AI5+, M8, and brief 5.10 climbing. He praised both the climb and the mountain, describing it as “a beautiful route on a magnificent mountain,” with “some of the best stone and coolest positions I’ve encountered,” adding that it is “very worthy of more traffic.”
Other Andes News
Also on Taulliraju, Wadim Jablonski and Adam Kaniak spent four days repeating the Italian Route for its fifth ascent at a grade of ED2, M6, A1, AI5. Meanwhile, on Ranrapalca (6,162 m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Wiktor Smaglowski and Dawid Bartoszek climbed a new variation on the north face route Ya Pe’ Cholo (6b 80°, 1,200 m). And on Siula Grande (6,344 m), Mattia Sandionigi, Sandro Maranetto, and Pietro Saggiante, climbed a new route rock route up the east buttress. Read more about the ascents below.
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