BURSTTop U.K. trad climber Mat Wright has made the first ascent of a spicy trad route near Cairngorms National Park in northeast Scotland – which you can watch in a new film below. He also just made the second ascent of a 5.13b X called The Fugue.
Wright had travelled to the area to check out an old project with a proposed grade of E10. About the trip, Wright said, “During our time here, I sampled the lovely granite by repeating many fine traditional routes while being guided by Julian Lines, Britain’s most accomplished free soloist!
During his trip, he climbed One Inch Punch E9 7a [5.13b R/X] (FA), Lines’ Hybrid E7 6c, Morphine Drip E7 6c, Wife E7 6c, Natural Savant E7 6b (French 7c crack), Private Parts E6 6b, Smiths Arete E5 6a, and Hot Temper E5 6b.
Wright has been a leading trad climber for the past few years. He’s made the first ascent of Magical Thinking E10 7a on Pavey Ark’s East Gully Wall in the Lake District. And he’s repeated climbs like Lexicon E11, Rhapsody E11, Magical Thinking E10, Black Thistle E10, and Changing Tides, a 5.13cR/X, while bouldering up to V15 with Serenata.
Hard First Ascent
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