BURSTOn April 6, Jules Marchaland topped Ephyra V16 in Ticino, Switzerland. The problem only took Marchaland three sessions to send. It is Marchaland’s first of the grade, which is perhaps a little surprising given that he became the second climber ever to flash V14 in August of last year. However, before his V14 flash, he was better known for his sport climbing than bouldering.
“Unexpected send,” said Marchaland on Instagram. “I wanted to try this boulder, thinking it might not hurt my finger after dealing with a pulley injury. After 2 sessions, I’d figured out the moves, but linking them felt impossible to imagine. On the 3rd sesh, I was waiting for a perfect try to really know if I was close. Barely stuck the pinch before, never linked after, and never topped out. Was ready to leave it for next season.
“Then somehow, at the last go, I stuck the pinch, kept going and topped it, at night it felt sandy and sketchy.
No idea how. Unforgettable. Thanks homies for the good vibes.”
Ephyra is located in Chironico, Ticino, Switzerland. The problem was first climbed by Jimmy Webb in 2019 and features a very difficult lateral move onto the left shoulder. Nonetheless, a few ascensionists, including Giuliano Cameroni, Yannick Flohé, and even Webb himself, have suggested it is low in the grade. Bosi suggested that Ephyra is V15/16 rather than V16. Schubert and Marchaland, however, did not call it soft or a slash grade.
Marchaland is a well-rounded sport climber and boulderer. In March 2025, Marchaland sent Beyond 5.15a in Pic Saint-Loup on his second go – the Seb Bouin route was his fifth of the grade. In April that year, he climbed his first 5.15b, making the first ascent of Le bruit de l’acid 5.15b in Claret, France. In September, on a trip to Norway, he sent two popular Adam Ondra routes: Illusionist 5.14d and Kangaroo’s Limb 5.15a. In 2025 alone, Marchaland climbed at least nine 5.14ds, two 5.15as, and his first 5.15b.
As for bouldering, in August 2025, Marchaland flashed Power of Now Direct V15, becoming the second climber in history to flash the grade. With his Power of Now Direct flash, Marchaland’s redpoint and flash grades became matched in bouldering. In addition to his V15 flash, he has five more V15s to his name: Foundation’s Edge and Big Nose in Bas-Valais, Switzerland, Titan Assis in Grenoble, France, and Solar Plexus in Ticino, Switzerland. Last month, in March 2026, he topped Unison V15, also in Ticino.
Niky Ceria’s Second Ascent of Ephyra V16
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