In 2021, Fan Yang made the first ascent of Holey Guacamoley, a 5.14a on the Mothership Cliff in Owens River Gorge. A new video just dropped by v3rt Climbing Media featuring the send, words from Canadian climbing legend Peter Croft, and history on the area.
This was the first 5.14 in Owens River Gorge, and it was repeated in 2024 by Alex Honnold, who confirmed the grade. As Yang described the route, “It’s a special route with funky mind-blowing good moves. It’s very slightly overhanging yet climbs like a slab. Techy, powerful, it has jugs, nothing crimps, pockets, underclings, side pulls, and most importantly, often nothing for feet.”
There are two routes in Owens River Gorge with similar names. Yang’s 5.14 is Holey Guacamoley, while another is called Holy Guacamole. Guidebook author Marty Lewis informed Yang of the similarities the newest one was made public.
Owens River Gorge
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