BURSTGreg Boswell and Hamimsh Frost have established a six-pitch 250-metre mixed route on Shadow Buttress at Lochnager, Scotland. They named it Shadow Buttress Superdirect and graded it VIII 8. Shadow Buttress was already home to Scotland’s hardest mixed route with Bring da Ruckus, which was done by Boswell in 2023 at the grade of XII 13, read about it here.
About Shadow Buttress Direct, Boswell said on UK Climbing, “Start as for The Hooded Groove by climbing the initial gully of Shadow Buttress A and belaying in the cave. Climb the steep wall just to the right of The Hooded Groove and then rejoin The Hooded Groove to climb the vertical corner above to a turfy fringe before climbing the two overlaps above. Where The Hooded Groove moves rightwards up Shadow Buttress Direct, instead climb straight upwards aiming towards a prominent hanging V-Groove. Pass the groove on its left hand wall and then continue up to the top of the buttress on a few pitches of easier ground.”
Boswell then teamed up with Dave Cowan and made the first ascent of Shadowboxin next to Bring da Ruckus. Boswell said after, “We did a new line up the left side of the obvious steep wall (where Bring Da Ruckus goes through), to finish on the immaculate headwall that hangs above the steepness. It’s a line that’s been on my mind for a few seasons now, and it didn’t disappoint at all!! We then continued to the plateau over some very buried and snowy terrain to top out under a beautiful clear sky. All a bit different to the mental storm Frost and I finished earlier this week.”
Scottish mixed climbing is known for rime-crusted cracks, epic spindrift, hoar frost and committing routes. Every pitch feels like an adventure, as weather, terrain, and grit collide in always memorable ways. Boswell, Frost and Cowan are among some of the best Scottish winter climbers, be sure to follow them on Instagram for more great stories.
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