BURSTHere are five of the world’s best trad climbs, selected for their quality, historical significance, and appeal across skill levels. They span a range of difficulties and styles, from moderate classics to testpieces, and are located in some of the America’s top climbing destinations.
Always check local conditions, gear requirements, and access regulations before attempting.
Sail Away 5.8, Joshua Tree: This classic hand and finger crack on granite is accessible yet thrilling, with secure jams and face holds. Its standalone rock formation and stunning desert views add to the experience. It’s a short, single-pitch trad climb, ideal for climbers of moderate skill levels. Its popularity stems from its fun, varied moves and reliable protection.
Supercrack 5.10c, Indian Creek: Located in the heart of Indian Creek, a premier crack climbing destination, this must-do hand crack is known for its parallel sandstone splitter. It’s a rite of passage for crack climbers, offering sustained jamming with solid protection. Its aesthetic line and desert setting make it a must-do. It requires multiple hand-sized cams.
Wunsch’s Dihedral 5.11b, South Platte: This granite crack climb is a Colorado classic, featuring sustained hand jamming on a 70-foot second pitch that’s both technical and aesthetic. Its multi-pitch nature and high-quality rock make it a favourite. A traditional climb with varied crack sizes, it’s challenging but rewarding for intermediate to advanced climbers.
Supper’s Ready 5.12a, Gunks: A legendary single-pitch trad climb on the Trapps cliff, renowned for its multi-tiered roof system. This 150-foot quartz conglomerate route starts with a face and corner, leading to bouldery moves through chalked holds. Climbers face dynamic jug hauls and a crux at the lip, requiring bouldering strength for small crimps, followed by a thrilling dyno to a bucket. Horizontal cracks offer solid gear placements, though it’s rated PG. A classic testpiece, it embodies Gunks’ bold, exposed trad climbing ethos, attracting strong climbers seeking adventure.
The Phoenix 5.13a, Yosemite Valley: Located near Yosemite’s Upper Falls, this historic single-pitch trad climb is one of the world’s most famous finger cracks. First freed by Ray Jardine in 1977, its thin, technical crack on granite demands precise finger-locking and footwork, offering a classic Yosemite experience. A short but intense route requiring small cams and nuts for protection. Its historical significance and sustained difficulty make it a must-do for crack aficionados.
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