BURSTMyles Moser and his team, Trevor Anthes and Harry Kinnard, embarked on a 41-day capsule-style ascent of the Central Tower of Torres del Paine, confronting the full fury of Patagonia: wind, rain, gravity, and snow. Their objective was audacious, to establish a free climb up the 4,000-foot east face, one of the most imposing walls on Earth. With 29 independent pitches and seven more tied into the final summit section of the Bonnington-Williams Route (1963), they created a new 36-pitch route.
“This put a two-year project to rest,” said Moser. “What began as an idea and then a dream, over 13 years ago, turned into a reality and a true suffer fest,” Moser. The team endured 100-kilometer-per-hour winds, was buried under snow for five-day stretches, and nearly retreated when water supplies dwindled. They sat dormant for ten days, waiting for the perfect window to push toward the summit, only to race the setting sun before the weather closed in again.
The route they pioneered is steep and demanding, often requiring climbers to carry blocks in their pockets and backpacks down to their portaledges. The team cleaned holds, bolted belays, and worked tirelessly to ensure that the climb represented the highest quality of modern big-wall climbing. “Almost half of the route is dead vertical to slightly overhanging,” Moser explained, emphasizing the technical challenge.
The climbing was “phenomenal from the bottom to the top,” though some pitches remained unclimbed or only partially free, offering future teams opportunities to push the limits. Out of the 36 pitches, only two contained sections that Moser believed might be unclimbable, but even these could be overcome by a team with different strengths.
The project began in December 2024 with Hugo Perez, Kellen McGrath, Trevor Anthes, and Moser himself. In a 30-day push, they reached pitch 17 before the harshest weather in Moser’s 20 years of big-wall pioneering forced a retreat. Despite the setbacks, the team removed all equipment from the wall and returned home, carrying the lessons of their endurance and teamwork.
Returning in December 2025, Moser’s team, this time with Anthes and newcomer Kinnard, set out for a final attempt. “And what an adventure it was!” said Moser. “Too long if you ask me, but we got it done. Kinnard excelled in unlocking difficult pitches, while Anthes kept spirits high and ensured safety during the most gruelling moments. The result was a route Moser describes with pride, confident that future climbers will be “blown away by the magic and style of the climbing.”
Gratitude was a recurring theme in Moser’s reflections. He thanked the locals of Puerto Natales for their hospitality, Peque Claudia, Nico Secul, and the team at Red Point Hostal, for supporting logistics, transport, and portering. He also acknowledged friends and donors who contributed equipment, including Trango Holdings, Metolius, and Mammoth Mountaineering Supply. On the personal side, Moser gave special thanks to Sara Baldwin for her unwavering support during long days of preparation and wall-time.
Finally, Moser expressed respect for the park rangers of Torres del Paine. “To the Guarda La Parques… thank you for allowing us to live and enjoy your park,” he said.
Reflecting on the climb, Moser concluded: “As a small underground team of individuals that push barriers by swinging hammers and guiding in the woods… anything is possible if you keep your eyes on the prize and you’re willing to put in the hard work to achieve your goals.”
Earlier this season, Tommy Caldwell and Siebe Vanhee made a free ascent of the South African Route, a 1,200-metre 5.12c on Central Tower of Paine, in 24 hours, read about it here.
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