BURSTMason Gardener and Jacob Kuchler recently made the first ascent of Gods of Chaos on the east face of Mount Chaos in New Zealand. The 12-pitch 650-metre route goes at 5.10d/11a.
In their trip report here, Gardener and Kuchler said they found “some of the best quality schist either had climbed on and discussed in length of future prospects on this face.” They climbed it in a pure alpine style from the car, and would highly recommend it to anyone wanting to test themselves on a fantastically unexplored piece of rock.
The description for the crux 60-metre pitch four reads, “Outstanding pitch, bit of everything! Navigate a completely blank section of rock, then move straight up to tackle the big off width/chimney. Continue up a further 10m of grassy slabs to reach belay.”
Mount Chaos is part of the Humboldt Mountains, which includes the peaks along the main divide, from Nereus to the start of the Barrier Range – see a topo of the area here.
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