BURSTThe 1970s were an important period in climbing history, with climbers pushing the limits in ranges around the world. This article chronicles 20 significant ascents from 1971 to 1979, highlighting first ascents, innovative techniques, and pivotal moments that shaped the sport.
From Yosemite’s big walls to the Himalayas’ high peaks, climbers like Warren Harding, Reinhold Messner, and Jim Bridwell redefined what was possible. Routes like El Capitan’s Wall of Early Morning Light and Everest’s oxygen-free ascent tested climbers and sparked debates on ethics and style. Alpine-style ascents, clean climbing, and speed records were all the rage, reflecting the move toward minimalist climbing.
The climbs listed below helped shape the sport and went on to inspire generations of climbers. Climbing even a handful of these classics would be a feather in any climber’s cap.
1971: Wall of Early Morning Light (VI 5.7 A3), El Cap, Yosemite: Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell’s 28-day first ascent sparked bolting ethics debates.
1972: North Face (V 5.6 A3), Moses, Canyonlands: Fred Beckey and team’s first ascent marked a milestone in desert tower climbing.
1972: Painted Wall (VI 5.10 A4), Black Canyon of the Gunnison: Bill Forrest and Kris Walker’s bold first ascent tackled Colorado’s steepest wall.
1973: First Clean Ascent, Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.10 C3), Half Dome: Doug Robinson, Galen Rowell, and Dennis Hennek’s clean ascent pioneered environmental ethics.
1973: South Face (VI 5.10 A4), Half Dome: Warren Harding and Galen Rowell’s first ascent solidified Harding’s Yosemite legacy.
1974: Cerro Torre, Compressor Route (5.10 A3): Cesare Maestri’s team’s ascent, using hundreds of bolts, sparked controversy; bolts later removed.
1974: South Face of Aconcagua, Solo: Reinhold Messner’s solo ascent of the 6,959m peak showcased extraordinary skill.
1974: North Face (VI 5.10 A3), North Twin, Canadian Rockies: George Lowe and Chris Jones’ first ascent highlighted technical alpine prowess.
1975: Pacific Ocean Wall (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan: Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay, and Jay Fisk conquered this steep, challenging route.
1975: First One-Day Ascent of the Nose, El Cap: Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay, and John Long’s sub-24-hour climb revolutionized speed climbing.
1975: Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), Alpine Style: Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler’s 8,080m alpine-style ascent redefined high-altitude mountaineering.
1976: Nameless Tower (Trango Tower), Karakoram: Joe Brown and team’s first ascent marked a high-altitude rock climbing milestone.
1976: First Free Ascent, Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome: First big wall free climb at 5.12c by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson. 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the route at 5.12a.
1976: West Face, Changabang, Garhwal Himalaya: Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker’s alpine-style ascent showcased innovative Himalayan tactics.
1977: The Ogre (Baintha Brakk), Karakoram: Chris Bonington and Doug Scott’s first ascent, followed by Scott’s gruelling descent, highlighted high-altitude risks.
1978: Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen: Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler’s oxygen-free Everest ascent proved human endurance limits.
1978: Logan/Stump (VI 5.9 A2), Emperor Face, Mount Robson: Mugs Stump and Jim Logan’s first ascent tackled a famous Canadian Rockies face.
1978: Sea of Dreams (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan: Jim Bridwell, Dave Diegelman, and Dale Bard’s ascent pushed aid climbing boundaries.
1979: Genesis (5.12+), Eldorado Canyon: Jim Collins’ free ascent set a new standard for Eldorado’s hardest routes.
1979: Primrose Dihedrals (IV 5.8 A3), Moses Tower, Canyonlands: Ed Webster’s route blended aid and free techniques in desert climbing.
The post 20 Epic Ascents That Shaped 1970s Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine.