BURSTEarlier this month, Filip Schenk climbed his first 5.15b with the famous Erebor in Arco, Italy. The send came just after his repeat of Tre Mou Polacche 5.14d, which only took him two days of effort. Erebor has a cruxy boulder, for which Schenk trained using a replica on his home wall.
The power endurance test-piece Erebor was bolted by Stefano Ghisolfi who made the first ascent in January 2021. Laura Rogora made the second ascent of the route in October 2021, becoming the first woman to climb a proposed 5.15b/c. The following month, Adam Ondra repeated the line after only four days of effort and suggested a downgrade to 5.15b. Ghisolfi agreed with the downgrade, and subsequent ascensionists have all graded the line 5.15b, including Jakob Schubert, Stefano Carnati, Gabriele Moroni, Gio Placci, and Jonathan Siegrist.
About his send, Schenk said: I had my first attempts in autumn 2024, and I immediately realized it suited me well. The only part that gave me trouble was the first boulder: I couldn’t do it with the original beta, so I had to come up with my own sequence to get through it. Throughout last competition season, I kept thinking about when I’d finally return to try it again, and once November arrived, I decided to dedicate myself entirely to Erebor.
Since I already knew the moves from the two sessions last year and had trained specifically for the first boulder before November, I found myself clipping the anchor much sooner than expected, finally settling the score with Erebor this year after just four days on the route. It was an unforgettable feeling!”
Laura Rogora’s Send
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