BURSTOn June 21, the summer solstice, French climbers Hugo Parmentier and Esteban Daligault set out to free the three hardest routes on the Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif in under 24 hours.
They began at 5:10 a.m. on the 450-metre Voie Petit, climbing difficulties up to 5.13c in 4 hours 10 minutes. After 12 raps, they started Trésor de Romain at 11:15 a.m., reaching its summit at 4:30 p.m. despite intnse heat. The final route, L’Or du Temps, climbs 450 metres at 5.13, and they were ready to begin by 6 p.m.
A few drops of rain soon turned into a hailstorm, soaking the wall and ending the attempt. While the project fell short on paper, the climbers, who had previously climbed each route individually, called the day a success.
“This day gave us exactly what we came looking for,” they shared with Gripped in an email. “Flow, sharing, commitment, difficulties, adaptation… and 900 metres of magnificent climbing. We leave without the triple crown. But the project isn’t over. The enchainment is still there to be completed – the challenge is open!”
Triple Crown du Grand Cap
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