BURSTGabri Moroni, 37, has made the first ascent of Prima Linea 5.15a in northwestern Italy, a month after sending V14 and V15 in Val di Mello.
“Fast forward to this season—20 sessions later,” Moroni said on 8a.nu. “I’d just returned from several days of routesetting in Paris. I should’ve felt exhausted, but that wasn’t the case. Straight off the plane, I drove to the project and ended up having one of my best sessions yet, despite the lack of sleep. Later that week, I found myself with a rare free day. It was dry, windy, and not too cold—the kind of day climbers dream of. Everything lined up perfectly. I felt light, in a way I hadn’t for a long time. The atmosphere was relaxed, just me, Stefano Bianchi, and Alberto. I felt supported and at ease.
Within the past month, the head routesetter at Milan’s Urbana, and national team coach, has climbed several 5.14+ and 5.15- routes, including Erebor 5.15b. Some of his hard first ascents include Trofeo dell’Adriatico 5.15a and Demencia Senil 5.15a.
“I don’t train much, but I constantly give my body some stimuli,” he said. “And this is the first year since 2015 that my elbows don’t hurt.” Click here for stretches to help avoid elbow pain.
5.15a FA by Moroni
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