BURSTClimbing’s second appearance at the Olympics is coming up this summer 2024 in Paris. Unlike in the Tokyo Olympics, in Paris, the sport of climbing will be broken down into two separate events: Boulder & Lead Combined and Speed. Twenty men and twenty women will compete in the Boulder & Lead Combined event. Fourteen men and fourteen women will face off in Speed.
Eight of the twenty qualifying spots for each gender have already been filled for the Boulder & Lead Combined competition. These qualifying spots were granted at the 2023 World Champions in Bern and a series of continental Olympic qualifying competitions held around the world over the past few months. At the World Championships in August, Jakob Schubert, Colin Duffy, Tomoa Narasaki, Janja Garnbret, Jessica Pilz, and Ai Mori all earned their Olympic tickets.
The first continental qualifying event was the Pan American Games in Chile where Team USA members Jesse Grupper and Natalia Grossman won gold and Olympic tickets. With Grupper’s win, Team USA’s male quota for the Boulder & Lead Olympic event has now been filled. A few days later, Great Britain’s Toby Roberts and France’s Oriane Bertone earned their tickets at the European Qualifier in France.
At the Asia Qualifier in Indonesia, 16-year-old Sorato Anraku from Japan and Yuetong Zhang from China earned their tickets. With Anraku’s win, Team Japan’s male two-athlete quota has now been filled. The Oceania Qualifer in Melbourne in late November ended with tickets being awarded to Australia’s Campbell Harrison and Oceana Mackenzie. The final continental qualifier held in South Africa’s Pretoria in early December awarded Mel Janse van Rensburg and Lauren Mukheibir Olympic spots.
In May and June 2024, 10 athletes in each gender category will be awarded Olympic tickets at the IFSC Olympic Qualifying Series. Held in Shanghai from May 16 to 19 and Budapest from June 20 to 23, this competition series will serve as the last opportunity for athletes to earn their chance to compete in the Olympics.
For each gender, outside of the 10 Olympic Qualifying Series spots up for grabs and the eight spots already awarded, two additional spots will be granted: one for the host nation (France) and one “universality” place for typically underrepresented nations in climbing. If the host nation spot is already filled through qualifying competitions, as it was by Oriane Bertone in the women’s field, it will be reallocated to the highest ranked climber without a qualifying spot.
You can see the list of men and women who have already qualified for the Paris Olympics in Boulder & Lead Combined and Speed below:
Boulder & Lead Combined – Men
- Jakob Schubert (AUT)
- Colin Duffy (USA)
- Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
- Jesse Grupper (USA)
- Toby Roberts (GBR)
- Sorato Anraku (JPN)
- Campbell Harrison (AUS)
- Mel Janse van Rensburg (RSA)
Boulder and Lead Combined – Women
- Janja Garnbret (SLO)
- Jessica Pilz (AUT)
- Ai Mori (JPN)
- Natalia Grossman (USA)
- Oriane Bertone (FRA)
- Zhang Yuetong (CHN)
- Oceana Mackenzie (AUS)
- Lauren Mukheibir (RSA)
Speed – Men
- Matteo Zurloni (ITA)
- Long Jinbao (CHN)
- Bassa Mawem (FRA)
- Samuel Watson (USA)
- Rahmad Adi Mulyono (INA)
- Julian David (NZL)
- Joshua Bruyns (RSA)
Speed – Women
- Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA)
- Emma Hunt (USA)
- Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL)
- Piper Kelly (USA)
- Deng Lijuan (CHN)
- Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL)
- Aniya Holder (RSA)
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