BURSTOn December 9, Jonathan Siegrist repeated Tre Mou Polacche 5.14d (9a) in Arco, Italy. Located at the picturesque Eremo di San Paolo crag where Erebor 5.15b is found, the route was originally bolted and named by Gabri Moroni. Late last month, Stefano Ghisolfi and Gio Placci made the shared first ascent of the climb. The pair worked the moves and unlocked the climb together, both sending the route on the same day. Rather than focusing on who climbed the route first, they took a collaborative approach and together claimed a shared first ascent, something that isn’t often seen in the world of hard sport climbing.
“I’m still feeling pumped!” said Siegrist about Tre Mou Polacche on Instagram. “This send was a bit of a consolation prize, as the conditions proved to be just too cold for me on my primary objective. I got so painfully close but my progress hit a wall once the temps dropped even lower last week. That was disappointing to me if I’m honest, I struggle to know when to move on. The upside however, is that we’ve discovered an absolute love for Arco! Exploring this incredible place has brought an excitement and curiosity that I haven’t felt in a while. Many, many great reasons to come back!”
Siegrist, 39, is one of the world’s best sport climbers. According to his 8a.nu page, he has sent six 5.15b’s, 25 5.15a’s, and 52 5.14d’s. He’s had an incredible 2024. In February, he repeated Don’t Die in Linares 5.14d and Me I Eat Dust 5.15a, both in Texas. In May, he made the first ascent of Anemology 5.15b at Utah’s Sunset Alley. In June, he made the second ascent of Cameron Hörst’s Martial Law 5.15a at Robber’s Roost on Mount Charleston, just outside of Las Vegas.
The following month, in July, he repeated two 5.14d’s: BJ Tilden’s The Ritual in Ten Sleep and Crise de Panique in Switzerland. He also sent two 5.14d routes in August: an FA of Walk the Line in Colorado’s The Monastery and a repeat of Tilden’s Pneuma in Ten Sleep. On November 1, he made a rare repeat of L’étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs 5.15a at Céüse. The Adam Ondra first ascent is known for being hard for the grade and having some huge runouts, even by Céüse standards.
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