BURSTEvan Wisheropp made the first ascent of Offwidth’s Greatest Nightmare in Day Canyon, Utah, earlier this year. Then 5.14 trad climber Mary Eden grabbed the first repeat of the three-pitch 5.12. Watch Eden climb it below.
“I found this spectacular, and spectacularly spooky splitter and knew we had an ephemeral classic on our hands,” said Wisheropp. “After the crux second pitch, you can continue for two more pitches, culminating in a 20-inch 5.12 roof offwidth pitch landing you on the rim. The second pitch flake ‘feels’ solid, but who knows how long it will last.” About the second pitch, Wisheropp said, ‘At the end of the chimney, head rightward into the endless offwidth and squeeze. The crack fairly consistently increases in size to 10″ then shrinks back down to 6″ at the top. None of the moves are particularly hard, it just keeps going.”
Five Must-Climb North American Offwidths
Little John, Left 5.8, El Capitan Base Routes, Yosemite
Shake-n-Bake 5.10a, Stronghold Dome, Cochise Stronghold
Wide Pride 5.10c, Lost Ridge, Red River Gorge
Pipeline 5.10d, The Shlanay, Squamish
Crack of Fear 5.10d, Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Offwidth’s Greatest Nightmare
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